Chocolates, rich creamy chocolates, the kind that you step on and make the trail slippery amidst torrential rain as we make our descent from Mt. Guiting Guiting on the island of Sibuyan, Province of Romblon.

No amount of rain gear can protect you from the continuous downpour as we trekked down under the steep forest canopy, our paths turned into mini rivers, drenched to the bones, for nearly 9 hours, this was the longest shower I ever took.

As we reached the Malamig River, being the last team to arrive, the day-long torrent had turned what used to be a gentle stream into a mad rapid of murky currents with rocks and tree trunks belting down; it was almost dark and we must get across.

Mt. Guiting-Guiting, fondly called G2 by mountaineers, is classified as the most technically difficult mountain in the Philippines. On a scale of 1 to 9, G2 is a 9/9 or even 10/9 depending on prevailing weather conditions and environmental factors. Mt. Pulag, the highest peak in Luzon, for comparison, is an easy 3/9.

Rising 2058 MASL at the heart of Sibuyan Island, one of the seven islands that make up the Province of Romblon, acknowledged as the marble capital of the country, guiting-guiting means jagged in the local dialect, make so by the saw-toothed peaks that projected beyond the clouds.

It was in May 1982 that the first attempt to summit Mt. Guiting-Guiting was undertaken; with Art Valdez leading the combined team from the Bacolod based Philippine Mountaineering Society (PMS) and the University of the Philippines (UP) mountaineers. The team however failed to summit G2 in this first attempt but return two weeks later with Mon Ruiz, Kim Valino, Bubot Tan Torre (the UP mountaineers) and Edwin Gatia of the PMS team as being the ones to first stand at the peak of Mt. Guiting-Guiting.

The H4L team took a combined bus and ferry transports in going to Romblon; bus to Batangas Pier was provided by Dela Rosa Transit, the Batangas-Romblon-Sibuyan crossing was via Montenegro Lines. With an average cruise speed of 10 knots, the overnight trip to the island of Romblon (with a stop at Odiongan, Tablas Island) took around 10 hours while the transfer from Romblon to Sibuyan Island using a smaller ferry, took just two hours.

Upon arrival at Magdiwang, our jump-off point for the hike, the team first paid a courtesy call to the Mayor and the Vice Mayor and was served a hearty lunch.

First turnover of the solar lamps was for the Guides and Porters Association of Mt. Guiting-Guiting as they are at the forefront of ensuring safety for all hikers. We spent the night at the house of its president, Mang Toto, with our sleeping bags spread on the floor. At about midnight, rain started to pour, and on a house with tin roof, the sound of raindrops can be like hammers striking a gong, keeping us anxious throughout the night of the impending effects for the hike the following day.

It was still raining when we woke up at 5AM, by the time we started hiking, the sun had come out. The trail was leisurely at first with 3 river crossings, then vegetation thickens, soon you find yourselves under the forest canopy that even sunlight can barely penetrate, an eerie silence permeates the air. The path narrows, slopes get steeper, mud everywhere; by the time we got to Bulod’s Spring (last water source named after a local guide who discovered it during the first expedition), my legs were complaining after eight hours of continuous hiking. One more hour till we reach the campsite, I can do this!

At 1500 MASL, Mayo’s Peak was named after Mayo Monteza who celebrated his birthday during the initial attempt at summiting the mountain. The commanding view at this junction is already spectacular and the sunset, equally splendid! One can clearly see the islands of Romblon and Tablas on the west, while towering on the east, the majestic summit of Mt. Guiting-Guiting; directly below, the ravenous knife’s edge leading to its peak… the sight is not for the faint of heart.

Summit assault began the next day at 7AM after a heavy breakfast. The sun shone brightly as we negotiated the perilous rocks and rapacious cliffs, often clasping with bare hands while stepping on sharp protrusions as the team slowly trek forward. This was just the start, worse terrain still lies ahead.

Halfway during the assault, the weather changed. Fog moves in, temperature drops, rain follows; making the trail the more deadly. One must be insane to subject himself to such risks just to reach the summit, I thought to myself; this is no longer mountaineering, this is madness!

It was at this point, passed the so called camel’s back, that I gave up (also after hitting my head on a rock), and opted to stay behind as my arching legs were slowing the team down. Found a nice covering for myself while I watched the rest push on and disappear one by one, shrouded by the oncoming mist.

After about 2 hours by myself and consuming the last of my trail food, cold and hungry sets in, so I decided to head back to camp together with a German trekker and his guide. They were however in a hurried to get back to town on the same day, so after about an hour, I was on my own again with no choice but to continue alone to Mayo’s Peak.

The danger of trekking alone in such a perilous terrain didn’t actually cross my mind; I was more concentrated on navigating the paths and being careful where I hang and step. There were a couple of times I hit a wrong path and face with fully sprung spider webs but managed to retrace back to the correct trail and even found the time to shoot a couple of scenes.

It was 2:45PM when I finally reached the camp just as my ration of water is about to run out and I foraged like a bear from tent to tent. The rest of the team made it back a little past 6PM, equally exhausted and hungry, but they were beaming with pride from reaching the summit of Mt. Guiting-Guiting.

We break camp the next morning at 8AM and started our descent. By 10 o’clock, rain started to pour continuously; by the time my group reaches the first river, it had swollen to dangerous magnitude that make direct crossing an impossibility. Our guide, Mang Salud, had to revised different ways using a 15-meter rope for the 3 of us to get across safely; one of my companion chose to clutch the rope and was almost carried away by the rushing currents if two other guides did not intervene in time; another was tied to the chest and rapidly pulled across; I had to literally walked on a tightrope while supporting my body weight and balance like those canopy walk adventures but without the benefit of a hardness; this is one climb I will never forget!

Two more river crossings after and we finally got back to town; that night we feasted on giant calamares and delectable parrot fish, slept in an air-conditioned room with a cushion bed, a satisfied reward indeed for the weary body.

The next day our group journeyed to the town of San Fernando for the 2nd turnover of solar lamps; then another exhausting 3-hour hike to a Mangyan community for the last turnover. We spent the night laid out on the floor head to foot, occupying what little space was available in the small hut, again it keep raining the entire evening.

It was still dark when we left the village, putting on wet socks and muddy shoes is not exactly fun wherever you maybe; but the thought of returning home certainly keeps the spirit alive.

As our ferry pulled out of Sibuyan port on the way back to Romblon, I can’t help but think back on all the hardships and dangers we went thru… was it all worth it? Perhaps not much to us, but for the Mangyans and other beneficiaries, surely the gift of light was worth everything.

All VRs taken from January 30 – February 1, 2012. The author can be reached at: fung.yu@gmail.com

Darkness surrounds us, the temperature at a chilling 12 degrees Celsius as we woke up that morning ready for the final trek towards the summit of Mt. Pulag, the third highest mountain in the Philippines. With no time for breakfast and together with some 200 climbers, our group started the slow ascent in a bid to catch the sunrise atop Luzon’s tallest peak.

Towering at 2922 MASL (meters above sea level), Mt. Pulag, or Pulog as it was originally named (meaning bare due to grow of low grasses and shrubs on its slopes), borders between the provinces of Benguet, Ifugao and Nueva Vizcaya. Considered sacred by many tribes that live in its vicinity, the mountain host a wide variety of flora and fauna, some endemic while others endangered, and is regarded as one of the most bio-diversed in the Philippines.

The jump-off point for Mt. Pulag is via Baguio, about 6 hours ride north of Manila; one typically takes an overnight bus service at 11pm to arrive at daybreak the following day. From the bus terminal in Baguio, chartered jeeps toke our group to the Babalak Ranger Station, passing through picturesque roads, including a brief stopover at Ambuklao Dam, the country’s first hydroelectric plant.

Being a protected landscape and declared as a National Park under Proclamation No. 75 on February 20, 1987; a permit is needed to summit Mt. Pulag. On way to the ranger station, a mandatory briefing stop is also required at the DENR station wherein climbers are shown a short video about the mountain and the dos and don’ts during camping.

From the DENR station, be prepare for a butt-breaking 1.5 hours of rough jeep ride along alternating paved and rugged roads. While it is not exactly recommended due to safety reasons, you can choose to sit atop the jeeps for a more adrenaline-rush ride.

Babalak Ranger Station is host to the last community and starting point of the trek via the Ambangeg Trail; this was also the chosen site of the Hike 4 Light Project turnover of the solar lamps to its beneficiaries.

A short ceremony preceded the actual turnover by StS Solar Foundation Chairman Jim Ayala, Kaya ng Pinoy Foundation Chairman Art Valdez, mountaineering legend Fred Jamili, first Filipino and Filipina Mt. Everest summiteers Leo Oracion and Janet Belarmino, and together with local village leaders, barangay officials and local partners of the foundation.

The community in turn, rendered a sacred “kanyaw” ritual wherein a black pig was sacrificed to give thanks to the gods for the gifts and to invoke successful ascent and safe return for the climbers. Sweet rice wine called “tapuy” was served, community elders dance to the beat of the gongs, and the priest gave blessings.

We spent the night at the ranger station with a big bonfire to keep us warm as the meat of the sacrificed pig was offered to us to partake, it being the final part of the ritual.

The following morning, after final preparations, our 60-plus-man-team began the trek. We reached Camp 2 in only 2 hours along gentle sloping terrain, the typical characteristics of Mt. Pulag.

Upon reaching the camp, rain started to drizzle, and it continues until the late evening, drenching us in hopelessness of summiting the next day as we all stayed in our individual tents.

By about 9PM, the rain suddenly stopped, the sky cleared, and stars came out, true to what the kanyaw predicted; we shall not be denied.

It was 4:15 in the morning when we started our final ascent; pinpoints of light from our headlamps and flashlights curved along the long mountain path like some ancient religious pilgrimage. The waning Moon was still high in the sky; over the eastern horizon, darkness prevails, then it begun.

Wisp of crimson reds, followed by shades of orange and yellows, the Sun slowly rose from a sea of clouds against a velvet blue sky, “Let there be light” He says; as cameras clicked like crazy around me in perhaps was one of nature’s most spectacular show on Earth; a fitting tribute to the project’s core intention, of bringing social change thru the illumination of light.

All VRs taken from January 13-15, 2012. Reference: The author can be reached at: fung.yu@gmail.com

The flag raising ceremony was led by President Benigno S. Aquino III with Vice President Jejomar Binay, Manila Mayor Alfredo S. Lim, NHCP Chairman Dr. Serena Diokno, other government officials, dignitaries, members of the AFP, PNP, and the general public.

After the wreath laying at Rizal’s monument and a 21-gun salute to the National Hero, the President unveiled the new marker for the “Rizal Fountain” at the Noli Me Tangere Garden in Luneta.

Here are the 360 panoramas of today’s event at Rizal Park.

All VRs taken on December 30, 2011. The author can be reached at: fung.yu@gmail.com